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Choosing the Right Snare

There are many options when it comes to a snare and it can be somewhat overwhelming for the beginner as well as the experienced snare-man. We have gathered all the information you need to choose the right snare for you! If you have any questions or need help choosing your snare give us a call on 01256 352981.

Step 1: Law - It is your responsibility to know and abide by UK snaring laws and codes of practice.

Step 2: Cable Selection - There are many different types, sizes, constructions and lengths of cable to choose from.

Type of Cable:
There are many different types of cable out there, all with different qualities, characters, and uses. Below are the two most common.

Galvanised Aircraft Cable - This is a steel cable that has been galvanised. Galvanising is a process that puts a thin layer of protecting zinc on the cable, this zinc retards the rusting process and give the cable a sort of shiny appearance. Galvanised Aircraft Cable (GAC) is the most popular type of cable used in the UK today.

Bowden Cable – This is a stiffer cable than GAC and is the cable used on fox snares sold in farm stores and gun shops. The snares are made by A. B. Country Products.

Cable Construction: How cable is constructed affects almost every characteristic about the cable. It will determine flexibility, smoothness, strength, weight, etc. Cable construction should be chosen with diameter of cable, different construction may allow you to choose a smaller diameter cable, etc. 

7x7 – This is generally the most popular cable for fox snares in the UK it is used for snares, extension cables and connecting to earth anchors, etc.

1x19 – This is a stiff, smooth cable and is strong, it tends to kink somewhat easily. In snaring this cable is very fast when “loaded”. This cable is stronger than 7/7

Step 3: Anchoring End – To determine what type of end you want on your snare, you should know what type of anchoring system you will be using. Whether you prefer to use a rebar stake, an earth anchor, tree or fence post, the end on your snare can make attaching them a lot easier.

Solid Loop End: A fixed loop allows you to connect the snare with either a quick link, fencing wire or high tensile connector.

Swiveled End: Swivels are the most popular type of anchoring end. They allow the cable to turn with the animal and the code of practice recommends two swivels, one at the anchor point and one closer to the noose, but only one is generally used.

Step 4: Snare Lock – All snares must have some sort of lock or eye mechanism to work. Whether it is a commercially bought lock or home made it is what closes down on the snared animal and holds it there. In the UK only free running, relaxing locks are legal.

Relaxing Lock: A relaxing lock will close down on the animal when they walk through the snare and are pulling on the cable, but it will release the pressure off the cable once the animal stops pulling. The washer locks, Micro Locks, Traditional Locks and Relax-a-locks sold by Pro Trapper are all relaxing.

Step 5: Tealer Support Collar – Some snareman still use wooden tealer's to support their snares but wire ones are now most commonly used. The support collar is the device that attaches your snare to the support wire. The wire can then be adjusted to the proper height and position over the run.

Plastic Tubing: All our snares feature this support collar. To attach simply slide the tubing onto the tealer.

Step 6: Deer Stop – Is a stop placed on the inside of the noose that prevents the noose from closing past a certain point.

Deer Stop: A standard deer stop is fixed approximately 9" (23cm) from the eye of the snare. The deer stop allows a leg caught deer to pull its leg back through the snare, and allows you to re-set the snare.

Step 7: Breakaway Device – A breakaway device is not law in the UK although current research is underway. They can be a couple different things; S-hooks, J-hooks, Release Ferrules, or Breakaway Locks. They are devices that are designed to “breakaway” at a certain poundage of strength; they can straighten out, or pull off the end of the cable.

J-Hooks: A J-hook is a “J” shaped hook, usually made from a galvanised wire, with a pre-determined breaking strength. These J-Hooks are designed to complete the noose between the lock and the cable, when they breakaway they straighten out releasing the loop and allowing the non-target species to be released. J-Hooks work best with washer, relax-a-locks and Micro Locks, because of how they lay on the cable.

Release Ferrule:
A release ferrule is a small stop placed behind the lock on the cable. When the animal pulls with more force than the ferrules are rated for, the stop will pop off and release the loop and the animal. To properly use release ferrules you must have the appropriate swag tool and compress the tool completely. If you do not follow directions with release ferrules the breakaway poundage might end up way lower or higher than what they are actually rated for.

Step 9: Ask Questions – Snaring all comes down the personal preference. We are here to help and after you go through all this information, if you still can’t find what your are looking for, or don’t understand what something is used for just give us a call.

Fox control is necessary in order to ensure that damage to game, wildlife and livestock by fox predation is reduced to acceptable levels, particularly at vulnerable times of the year e.g. nesting and lambing time. It is the responsibility of all those involved in fox control to ensure their methods are legal, humane and carried out with sensitivity and respect for other countryside users. Snaring is subject to legal restrictions and when properly practiced is an effective and humane form of fox control. If in doubt do not set a snare!

Setting Fox Snares Ensure that only foxes are using the site where fox snares are to be set. The presence of foxes will be indicated by:

1. Fox tracks (footprints)

2. Long reddish brown hairs caught on bramble, twigs or wire.

3. Strong musty smell.

To snare foxes humanely, adhere to the following rules.

1. Only free running snares which contain a 'permanent stop', 9" (23cm) from the eye of the snare should be used.

2. Use good quality snares which incorporate a strong swivel. The wire must not be less that 460lbs (208 kilos) breaking strain.

3. Snares should be supported by a suitable 'tealer' or set-stick and set firmly in the ground. Tealer's made from fence-wire are easy to conceal, set and make.

4. Snares must be firmly anchored.

5. Ensure that snares run freely and are free of 'kinks'. Snares which are frayed or damaged should be discarded.

6. Snares should be set so that the bottom of the loop is at least 9" (23cm) off the ground under normal conditions and up to a height of 12" (30cm) or more, on open ground. When setting snares at these heights the loop should be 6" to 7" (15/18cm) at its deepest point.

7. The law requires that snares should be checked at least once a day. Inspection at least twice a day and as soon after dawn as is practical is recommended.

8. Foxes should be dispatched quickly and humanely by a shot from a rifle, shotgun or pistol and the body disposed of responsibly e.g. by burying.

9. The displaying of carcases serves no useful purpose and can offend other countryside users.

We will custom manufacture snares to your specifications. You decide the length, lock type, cable type, swivel, etc. Please email us with your requirements - info@protrapper.co.uk


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